<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8" standalone="yes"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"><channel><title>PCB Making on Murli Shenoy</title><link>https://murli-shenoy.com/categories/pcb-making/</link><description>Recent content in PCB Making on Murli Shenoy</description><image><title>Murli Shenoy</title><url>https://murli-shenoy.com/images/og-default.jpg</url><link>https://murli-shenoy.com/images/og-default.jpg</link></image><generator>Hugo</generator><language>en-us</language><lastBuildDate>Tue, 13 Apr 2010 21:10:58 +0000</lastBuildDate><atom:link href="https://murli-shenoy.com/categories/pcb-making/index.xml" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml"/><item><title>make a PCB yourself</title><link>https://murli-shenoy.com/posts/make-a-pcb-yourself/</link><pubDate>Tue, 13 Apr 2010 21:10:58 +0000</pubDate><guid>https://murli-shenoy.com/posts/make-a-pcb-yourself/</guid><description>&lt;p>&lt;strong>Making  a printed circuit board (PCB).&lt;/strong>&lt;/p>
&lt;ul>
&lt;li>First cut the copper clad board to size required.&lt;/li>
&lt;li>Sand the surface of the board to remove the layer of copper oxide that is formed due to the reaction of the copper with the oxygen in the air.&lt;/li>
&lt;li>&lt;a href="images/040420102056.jpg">&lt;img loading="lazy" src="https://murli-shenoy.com/posts/make-a-pcb-yourself/images/040420102056.jpg" title="sanded pcb">&lt;/a>&lt;/li>
&lt;li>Once the copper surface is shiny and clean avoid touching the surface of the copper.&lt;/li>
&lt;li>Eaglecad or ORCad may be used to design the schematic and the pcb design .&lt;/li>
&lt;li>Take a mirror image of the pcb design while using the CAM processor to generate the Gerber files .&lt;/li>
&lt;li>The gerber files maybe viewed online at &lt;a href="http://www.circuitpeople.com">http://www.circuitpeople.com&lt;/a> or the .eps file maybe viewed offline using the .eps viewer  take a lazer printout of the pcb layout using. this printout will be the mirror image of the actual pcb layout .&lt;/li>
&lt;li>Since during the transfer process the mirror image of the actual image will be transferred.&lt;/li>
&lt;li>Now cutout the actual PCB layout on the transperency. this will be the toner transfer&lt;/li>
&lt;li>.&lt;a href="images/040420102057.jpg">&lt;img loading="lazy" src="https://murli-shenoy.com/posts/make-a-pcb-yourself/images/040420102057.jpg" title="pcb2">&lt;/a>&lt;/li>
&lt;li>Lightly wipe the toner layer of the toner transfer with a peice of cloth and the surface of the cleaned copper clad. This will ensure that there is no dust or grime between the toner surface and the copper.&lt;/li>
&lt;li>Place the transfer on top of the cleaned copper clad board.&lt;/li>
&lt;li>Secure the layout in place with the help of a peice of tape or some glue.&lt;/li>
&lt;li>Using a hot clothes iron heat the toner transfer so that the toner layer from the tranfer is transferred onto the copper.(set the iron to the highest temperature possible…usually the cotton settings)&lt;/li>
&lt;li>Iron the transperency gently.&lt;/li>
&lt;li>&lt;a href="images/040420102058.jpg">&lt;img loading="lazy" src="https://murli-shenoy.com/posts/make-a-pcb-yourself/images/040420102058.jpg" title="pcb3">&lt;/a>&lt;/li>
&lt;li>Don’t put too much pressure on the clothes iron else the toner will smudge. too little pressure and the toner wont be transferred at all.&lt;/li>
&lt;li>Once you think the toner is stuck to the copper turn off the iron. let it cool down to the ambient temperature.&lt;/li>
&lt;li>&lt;a href="images/050420102059.jpg">&lt;img loading="lazy" src="https://murli-shenoy.com/posts/make-a-pcb-yourself/images/050420102059.jpg" title="pcb4">&lt;/a>&lt;/li>
&lt;li>Peel off the transperency if you got it right then you will see that almost all the toner has been transferred to the copper surface.&lt;/li>
&lt;li>The toner layer will form the etch resist.&lt;/li>
&lt;li>&lt;a href="pcb-making1.doc">&lt;/a>&lt;a href="images/0504201020601.jpg">&lt;img loading="lazy" src="https://murli-shenoy.com/posts/make-a-pcb-yourself/images/0504201020601.jpg" title="050420102060">&lt;/a>&lt;/li>
&lt;li>Now the copper clad can be put into the etching tank. ferric chloride maybe used as the etchant. although muriatic acid maybe used too.&lt;/li>
&lt;li>&lt;a href="images/050420102062.jpg">&lt;img loading="lazy" src="https://murli-shenoy.com/posts/make-a-pcb-yourself/images/050420102062.jpg" title="050420102062">&lt;/a>&lt;/li>
&lt;li>Gently ‘move’ the copper clad board through the FeCl3 solution.&lt;/li>
&lt;li>Once all the unwanted copper has been removed clean the PCB under running water.&lt;/li>
&lt;li>&lt;a href="images/050420102064.jpg">&lt;img loading="lazy" src="https://murli-shenoy.com/posts/make-a-pcb-yourself/images/050420102064.jpg" title="050420102064">&lt;/a>&lt;/li>
&lt;li>Remove the layer of the toner with some sand paper or a solvent such as acetone.&lt;/li>
&lt;li>&lt;a href="images/050420102065.jpg">&lt;img loading="lazy" src="https://murli-shenoy.com/posts/make-a-pcb-yourself/images/050420102065.jpg" title="050420102065">&lt;/a>&lt;/li>
&lt;li>If the PCB is meant for surface mount components then the PCB might require drilling.&lt;/li>
&lt;li>After the drilling is over. tin the copper surface to protect and increase the conductivity of the copper tracks.&lt;/li>
&lt;/ul>
&lt;p>References:&lt;/p></description></item></channel></rss>